Cut remaining leaves in half if they are large.ģ. A general rule of thumb is to remove 1/2 to 2/3 of the leaves. Most of the water will be lost through the leaves, so by decreasing the leaf surface you also decrease the amount of water loss. ![]() For a stem cutting, remove some of the leaves. If the plant is frost-tolerant, store the bagged cutting in the refrigerator.Ģ. If this is not possible, stand the cut end in water or place the cutting in a plastic bag with a damp paper towel and store out of direct sun. Once the cutting is harvested, excessive water loss must be prevented. Water the plant well the day before and take the cutting before the heat of the day reduces water content. Start with cuttings that contain as much water as possible. New roots must be formed as rapidly as possible if the new plant is to survive. The wound from the cut makes it susceptible to diseases. Once a cutting is severed from the parent plant, it can no longer take up water, and excessive water loss will result in death. To successfully propagate plants from cuttings, a number of challenges must be overcome. Each root produces two to three new stems and each stem then produces its own roots. Cuttings are taken when the plant is dormant and the roots contain the most stored energy. Root CuttingsĬuttings taken from roots may also be used but only a few species can be propagated this way. Only a limited number of plants have the ability to produce new roots and shoots from just a leaf. The leaf used for propagation usually does not become part of the new plant, but disintegrates after the new plant is formed. This leaf must generate not only new roots, but new shoots as well. Leaf cuttings are prepared by taking a single leaf from the plant. Some deciduous shrubs and needled evergreens will root from hardwood cuttings. The wood is firm and does not bend easily. They are cut in winter or early spring while the plant is still dormant. Hardwood cuttings are prepared from shoots that grew the previous summer. Many broadleaf evergreens (e.g., boxwood, holly, rhododendron) can be propagated by semi-hardwood cuttings. This occurs in mid-July to early fall for most plants. The wood is firm and all leaves are full size. Semi-hardwood cuttings are taken from the current season’s growth after the wood has matured. The youngest leaves have not yet reached their mature size. Shoots at the softwood stage will snap easily when bent. Softwood cuttings are prepared from soft, succulent new growth of woody plants just as it begins to harden (typically May through July). Stem cuttings from herbaceous plants can be taken any time the plant is actively growing. Softwood and herbaceous cuttings are the most likely to develop roots and become independent plants, hardwood cuttings the least likely. Because the new growth of trees and shrubs hardens as the summer progresses, cuttings taken at different times of the year vary in their ability to form roots. Stem cuttings can be taken from both herbaceous plants (e.g., garden flowers and houseplants) and woody trees and shrubs. A leaf cutting uses just the leaf, so both new roots and new stems must be formed to create a new plant. ![]() Thus, the stem cutting only needs to form new roots to be a complete, independent plant. A stem cutting includes a piece of stem plus any attached leaves or buds. Most frequently, however, either a stem or leaf is used.
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